The Style of Mickey Rourke, for Variety

Mickey Rourke is, was, and shall forever be the absolute opposite of wallflower—and the same goes for his dress sense. Since the release of his much-hyped comeback vehicle “The Wrestler”, we’ve seen Rourke work the red carpet with renewed panache, sporting an array of eye-popping designer looks wild enough to K.O. even his flamboyant wrestler alter ego, Randy “the Ram” Robinson.

“He’s never been one for a classic black tuxedo,” says his stylist, Michael Fisher, hired by Fox Searchlight to style Rourke for the “Wrestler” press tour. Fisher, a former assistant to photographer Annie Leibovitz, earned his stripes working with uber-stylists Rachel Zoe and Lori Goldstein, and was set up with Rourke four months ago. Unlike so many male stars, Rourke “likes to take chances on the red carpet” says Fisher. “He has a look that’s all his own. Very masculine, put together, and decadent. ” (Picture Robert Evans, Hugh Hefner and Frank Sinatra on a yacht in Monte Carlo—with lots of hair product.)

Rourke, in line for the Best Actor Oscar, had never worked with a personal stylist prior to Fisher. Once he realized Fisher didn’t have a stylist’s “agenda”, and was willing to help him express his own style, things went swimmingly. Rourke already had pre-existing relationships with certain labels, like Billionaire Couture (owned by Formula One mogul Flavio Briatore), and was keen to continue working with the company. Ralph Lauren and Dolce&Gabbana were also favored. “Mickey likes wearing a three-piece suit with a tank top, to bring in his boxing aesthetic,” says Fisher.

For the SAG Awards, Rourke wore a sharkskin Dolce&Gabbana suit paired with a long sequined Maison Martin Margiela scarf. Never frightened to wear sunglasses at night, he sported a pair by Loree Rodkin that evening, and is often seen wearing Sama’s “Press” sunglasses, as well as classic RayBan Wayfarers. “He likes his accessories, and that’s a rare trait to find in men,” says Fisher.

For the Golden Globes, Rourke chose a midnight blue velvet dinner jacket by Billionaire Club, worn with a long Stephen Webster pocket chain and an Etro pocket square. His burgundy velvet slippers, worn sans socks, were by shoe designer Jean-Michel Cazabat, with whom Rourke has a longstanding relationship. He is also a fan of Roberto Cavalli and Dolce shoes. “He loves his Italian designers,” says Fisher.

For the L.A. Premiere of “The Wrestler” Rourke channeled King Midas, with a look by Billionaire Couture, comprising a gold jacket, amber waistcoat, and shirt the color of lemon pie. He was more muted for the BAFTAS in London (where he won the leading actor award) in a charcoal Dolce and Gabbana dinner jacket with cream piping and black silk shirt, livened up by a white belt and that swinging key chain.

And what about the all-important Oscars rug? Fisher is keeping the sartorial details under wraps, but confirms Rourke is working with an avant garde designer to create a look that’s sure to stand out. “For the Oscars, Mickey is definitely going to be Mickey,” he assures us.